Introducing our latest IKEA hack: the Fluted Ivar Sideboard. This project is the perfect blend of functionality and style, and we’re thrilled to walk you through every step of the process. Trust us, with a little bit of elbow grease and creativity, you’ll have a stunning piece of furniture that’s sure to impress. So, let’s get started, shall we? Grab a cup of coffee and settle in as we guide you through the ins and outs of building your very own Fluted Ivar Sideboard.
Tools You Will Need for this Fluted Ivar Sideboard Build:
- Mitre Saw
- #2 Phillips Screwdriver
- Random Orbital Sander (optional)
- 2 Quick-release clamps (C or F style clamps will also work)
- Nail Gun (18 ga. or 23 ga.)
- Drill and/or driver
- Square (12” Combination works well)
- Circular Saw or Table Saw
- Measuring Tape (optional)
Building Materials Needed for Fluted Ivar Sideboard:
- Two 32” x 12” x 33” IKEA Ivar Cabinets
- 20-1” x 96” Half Round Dowels
- 1-¾” x 14” x 72” Pine Project Panel (poplar and pine are recommended)
- Furniture Feet (we recommend anything that is 4” or less in height)
- A ¾” Piece of Plywood or MDF for optional top dimensions
Painting Supplies Needed:
- 6 Furniture Feet
- 2-Paint Roller sleeves (Microfibre or flocked foam is preferred)
- Mini Paint Roller
- 2 ½” Paint Brush
- Sand Paper (150 Grit and 220 Grit)
- Primer-1L/1Qt. (natural color recommended)
- Wood Filler
- Putty Knife
Other Supplies Needed:
- 1” Nails for door dowels and ⅛” Drill bit
- 30-1 ¼” Construction or particle board screws (#8)
- Countersink Drill Bit (¾” or 1 ¼” for the side trim)
- Nail Punch
- Wood Glue
Step 1: The Ivar Build
Assemble the two IKEA Ivar cabinets using the instructions provided or watch the assembly video.
Note: You can leave the doors off, hinges out of doors, and hinge plates off for now, as it will make painting much easier to attach them after. Also, leave the adjustable shelf pins out.
Step 2: Cutting Filler and Dowels
Cut the filler strips and half dowels using your mitre saw. The two filler strips are made out of the 1” x 2” x 96” pieces. Cut these to be 32 ½” long.
Now cut all 60 of your half dowels to be 32 3/16” long. Because of all the repeated cuts, using a stop block is helpful. If you have a mitre stand, they usually have flip stops built into the ends that you can set up to work, but you can also set your saw up next to a wall or something solid that you can push each piece up against. If you don’t use a stop block, mark out each piece using your square.
Step 3: Filler Attachment
Glue and nail(or screw) your filler strips from step 2 to one side of one of the cabinets. Line up the front filler strip with the front edge of the cabinet and the back filler with the back edge of the cabinets. You can use a couple of clamps here to help hold the strips in place until you get nails or screws into them. Here you can use a ⅛” pilot drill bit before inserting screws. You can also use a countersink drill bit to pre-drill a cone-shaped hole for the head of the screw to fit into. However, if you got the screws with the cutters suggested above, they should drive themselves very easily into the pine material of the cabinet. You want to ensure the screw heads flush with or sit below the surface.
Step 4: Cabinet Carcass Attachment
Put some glue on the two filler strips and line up the front edge of your second cabinet beside the first one. Use the clamps again to help them stay lined up and ensure the top is flush. (image 4.1)
Once you are happy with the alignment, screw the second cabinet into the filler strips. We recommend four screws in each filler strip. (image 4.2)
Step 5: Dowel Attachment
The 15, 1” dowels should fit perfectly on your doors. You can take a moment to dry fit your dowels and ensure they fit before putting any glue on them. Attach the half dowels to the doors with glue and the 1” 18ga or 23ga nails. Remember to line up at the dowels at the edge of the profile of the door, as this will look best. The half-dowels are already sized to sit here perfectly.
Apply a bead of glue to each half dowel and pin it in place. Repeat this process 15 times for each door. We used four nails per dowel.
(Don’t worry about mounting your doors now; we just did it for demo purposes!)
Fill all your pin holes using the wood filler now. Once it’s dry(20-30mins), sand off all the excess with 150 grit sandpaper or a sanding sponge if you got one.
Different types of fluting:
There are a few different options for getting the fluted look. Here are a few that could replace the dowels. Be sure to adjust the length of the pins and the number of pieces you need.
The above photos are of a piece called batten moulding. If you use pieces that are ¾” wide, you will need 20 of them per door for this project.
Pieces that are rectangular or square could also work. If your pieces have square edges instead of rounded, you must leave a gap between them to get a fluted look. This gap’s size will depend on how wide your molding pieces are and how big of a gap you want in between them. Use a scrap piece that is the correct width of your gap to space all of your moldings equally.
The formula for figuring out how big your gap will have to be is:
width of door-(# of flutes x width of flutes) / (# of flutes – 1)
Example- Width of fluting is ¾(.75) and you are using 10 pieces
15” – (10*.75) / 9 = .833(13/16”)
.833(13/16”) is the gap between your fluting
Step 6: Side Trim
Using your remaining 1 x 2 pieces, cut four pieces that are 32 ½” and four pieces that are 10 ¾”. These are the long measurements from the longest point to the longest point. These pieces will have 45-degree mitre cuts on both ends. This is where the combination square is handy for marking out the 45-degree cuts.
Cut one end with a 45-degree angle and measure off of the longest point to 32 ½” and 10 ¾” for each of the respective pieces. Using the combination square, extend the measurement across the piece using the 45-degree edge of the square. Repeat this for all 8 of the trim pieces. They should look like this (image 6.2)
Attach the pieces to the sides of the cabinet with a bead of glue on the back of each piece and nail them in place. These will cover up the screws on the outside of the fluted Ivar cabinets. (image 6.3 & 6.4)
Fill all your nail holes with wood filler. If there are any gaps in between your mitres, you can fill them with some wood filler as well. Wait until they are dry, and sand the spots down flush with the 150-grit sandpaper.
Step 7: Furniture Feet for Fluted Ivar Sideboard
There are a few options for feet. We made our own because we couldn’t find what we had in mind locally. The easiest option would probably be to cut up some square feet from a 2 x 2 or 4 x 4. The next option is to buy some furniture feet like these :
These can be bought at just about every major hardware store and separate attachment plates can be purchased that the screw insert will go into : (image 7.2)
Metal legs are also an option if you prefer that look. (image 7.3)
**Note you may need some ⅝ or ¾” screws to attach the attachment plate or metal legs to the bottom of the cabinet.**
We made our feet by gluing two pieces of 2 x 4 together, cutting the length down on the mitre saw, and using our table saw to put a 20-degree angle on all four sides. **We only recommend this method if you are familiar with woodworking techniques and the table saw. **
Step 8: Top
Cut down the project panel in length to 65 ¼” using a circular saw or your mitre saw. If you have a circular saw, I highly recommend using it here. Make a square line on your measurement and cut along that line. When you cut with a circular saw, make sure the good face is down as it will tend to splinter out the top more than the bottom.
Depending on what you can find, you may also need to cut down the width of your project panel(or plywood panel). For our 12” Deep cabinets with the extra thick doors on there now we decided to make our top 13 ¼” deep and hung ½” of material off the back with ¾” hanging off the front. The back overhang will ensure you don’t have a gap between the wall and the top for things to fall behind because the base will inevitably rest up against your baseboard trim.
**Note that most hardware and lumber stores will have saws to reduce panel products. If you don’t have a circular saw or table saw at home you may want to ask if they could cut down the panel product you chose**
Once your top is positioned in place, use a clamp or two to hold it in place. Screw the top in through the top of the cabinets from the inside using 12, 1 ¼” Screws. This may seem excessive, but it’s best to have more at the top due to this being the place that it will most likely be lifted from when moving it around.
We added a chamfer to our top and bottom edges with a router and a 45-degree angle bit with a bearing. If you do not have a router, I highly recommend using a piece of sandpaper on a block to break the edges until you are happy with them.
Step 9: Sanding and Priming the Fluted Ivar Sideboard
Before priming, it is recommended to sand the entire project with 150 or 180-grit sandpaper. Especially if there are any rough spots, feel free to give those a once over with the 150 or 180-grit sandpaper. **Always make sure when sanding to go with the direction of the grain and never against it. **
Lay down your drop sheet /cardboard /protective layer and set the fluted ivar sideboard on top. We recommend using a brush to ‘cut in’ all the corners and hard-to-reach-with-a-roller areas to apply the primer. Some examples are the inside corners of the cabinets and around the trim on the outsides of the cabinet. Once you have all those done, use your roller and tray to apply the primer to all the spots that haven’t been done. We opted to finish places like the bottom and back, which won’t be seen, so it’s up to you if you’d like to prime and paint these spots. Once the first coat of primer has been applied, check over the whole project to make sure there are no drips or spots you are unhappy with.
Let the primer dry for at least an hour before applying the second coat. We recommend two coats of primer for this build. **Make sure to lightly scuff sand all areas with the 220-grit sandpaper between coats**
Step 10: Painting
Repeat the steps used for the primer above using furniture paint(we chose Matte Black). Read the directions on your specific paint for dry and recoat times. Make sure to keep sanding with 220 grit between coats. We recommend doing at least two coats on the sideboard’s main body and three coats on the top and the doors. These are the pieces that will get the most wear and tear.
We left our adjustable shelves a natural color and put a clear coat of water-based polyurethane.
You may also put a clear coat over the paint for extra protection. Check with the store you bought the paint from and which clear coats work best with your specific paint.
Step 11: Re-Assemble the Fluted Ivar Sideboard
Once you finish, put the hinge plates, hinges, and shelf pins in their respective spots. Install the adjustable shelves. Refer to the hinge adjustment section of the Fluted Ivar sideboard build video at the start if you need to adjust your hinges.
**Our fluted Ivar sideboard ended up with the doors being quite heavy; using the holes through the top nailing strip in the cabinet, you can attach the unit to the wall through a stud or by using a wall anchor. This will ensure it doesn’t tip over when opening both sets of doors**
Congratulations, You have completed the Fluted Ivar Sideboard build!
There are a couple of fun extras that you can add to this build to enhance the function.
-Rubber bumpers to help your doors close a little more silently. These are just like stickers that you can buy at most hardware stores. Apply them to the inside of the doors on the opposite corners of the hinges.
-Soft close mechanisms can be installed close to the hinge side of your doors to add a very nice soft closing feature. These are the ones we’d recommend: